Category: ice guide

Plan B (BYOG)

Rating: WI4+
Length: 80 meters
Pitches: 2

Climb a first short step into a shallow bowl to the base of the proper climbing or lead through to a belay before the exit. The route exists in a narrow theatre and protection against ice fall is a must. Varying terrain allows for challenging conditions from WI4 to WI5. After the main pillar, several smaller steps of ice exist above that help with gaining a good view of the local scenery.

On the first ascent, the group bailed on a first main objective deciding to tackle Plan B. The pilot had to scramble and fly to get a loaner harness at the Caribou Creek pullout. Fortunately for him, he was able to join the team on the ascent.

Descent: Rap (v-thread) the route.

FA: Paul Guzenski, Chris Lindsey, & Mark Fleenor, February 9, 2023

War Horse

Rating: WI3
Length: 140 meters
Pitches: 3

To the left of emerald city lies two large routes. The right one is a route that rarely forms all the way down.

Descent: Rap the route. On the first ascent, the party rapped to the snow shelf on 70 meter ropes and a second rap was required to descend the first short step.

FA: Benny Lieber/Shawnee Whitehorse/Travis McAlpine, December 29, 2022

Posted by:Travis McAlpine, February 1, 2023.

Hanging Chad

Rating: WI6, M4
Length: 350 feet

Pitch 1: Approach pitch (WI3)
Short vertical step leads to low angle ice. Belay from cave on left.

Pitch 2: The Hanging Chad (WI6) 40M
Steep ice leads to more steep ice with the possibility of encountering a roof. Pillar often does not touch down. Many fixed pins in the rock from Jeff Benowitz. Belay from screws.

Pitch 3: Quartz Chimney (M4): A short, secure chimney leads to a few crux moves exiting onto a low angle snow ramp. Belay from alders.

First Complete Ascent: Tristan O’Donoghue, Grant Wilson, and Ethan Berkeland, 2023

Descent: Rap from atop the pillar or top out and walk off climber’s right down a large gulley above Gunnysack 2. Before reaching the top of the gunnysack 2, cut to skiers right which brings you back to the base of the ice climb.

Posted by: Tristan O’Donoghue, January 27, 2023.

Big Spoon

Rating: WI3/4
Length: 50 meters
Pitches: 1

Set far back in an alpine canyon lays a 20m wide curtain ice that has potential for multiple options up to WI5 but a WI3 weakness can be the easy option of desired. Higher up it stays in until late season and can be a worthy climb if in the Spoon creek area.

Descent: Rap the route.

FA: Mark Fleenor, Kelsey Shanklin, Brett Winterbottom; April 5, 2022.

Posted by: April 7, 2022.

Heads Up

Rating: WI4
Length: 80 meters
Pitches: 2

The ice on this route meanders up through a headwall of rock. Even though the rock is relatively stable in comparison to other ranges, like the Chugach, the first ascent party did encounter a few bombs that placed climbers in danger. This hazard can be mitigated with well placed belays.

A first short step of WI3 leads up 10 meters to a large shelf/snow covered area of 15 meters to the base of the objective main pillar. Climb through 35 meters to a much smaller shelf to either belay the harder, and shorter second pillar of 20 meters or climb the whole pillar in a single push. To climb the whole main pillar in a single push would likely require 70 meter ropes.

The route name was given for the first ascent where Austin was lucky to avoid a rock bomb to the face when Mark called out a last minute warning. Thanks for the spot, Mark!

Descent: Rap the route. On the first ascent, the party rapped to the snow shelf on 70 meter ropes and a second rap was required to descend the first short step.

FA: Chris Lindsey, Austin Thayer, Brett Winterbottom, Mark Flennor; March 20, 2022.

Posted by: March 21, 2022.

Little Spoon

Rating: WI4
Length: 25 meters
Pitches: 1

A gem of a route tucked right on the corner of Spoon Creek off the east side of the Matanuska about 6 miles up glacier. The route is a 10m wide curtain of blue ice with a short free hanging pillar on its far right.

FA: Brett Winterbottom, Mark Flennor; March 12, 2022.

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: March 15, 2022.

Pillar of Cyn

Rating: WI5-
Length: 23 meters
Pitches: 1

Vertical free standing pillar with a few bulges at the top out into a tight alder and snow filled gully. Trees exist for an anchor up top that can be accessed via a ramp to the right of the climb.

The climb was named after the lady who followed the unknown leader. Her name was Cyndie, it was her first time ice climbing.

FA: Bob Shelton/Cyndie (last name unknown)

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: March 2, 2022.

Puck Futin

Rating: WI 3
Length: 30 meters
Pitches: 1

Short in stature, arrogant in attitude.

This little climb exists in a side canyon with little direct sunlight. It is wide enough for two parties and deep in blue color. The route moves through a couple of steps up to a slot canyon. The avalanche danger in the area is minimal.

This route is named in support of the Ukrainian people in their struggle for freedom that at the time of the first ascent were being invaded by the Russian army.

FA: Austin Thayer, Chris Lindsey, & Seiji Ishii; March 2, 2022.

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Chris Lindsey; March 2, 2022.

Turquoise Dragon

Rating: WI 5
Length: 1,300 feet
Pitches: 5 to 6

Pitch 1 is 25m WI 2/3
Pitch 2 is 25m WI 3+
200ft snow climb with two short easily solo’able WI2 pitches to base of pitch 4
Pitch 4 is 35-40m WI5
400-500ft snow climb taking eight at obvious drainage fork to base of pitch 5
Pitch 5 is 15m WI 3+

While the final pitch is worthwhile, parties who are short on time or looking to avoid the snow slog wouldn’t be missing a ton to turn at the top of pitch 4.

FA: Paul Turecki and Jim Sweeney

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Forrest Voss, February 5, 2022.