Category: ice guide

Cathedral Falls

Rating: WI5+??
Length: 70-80 meters, one main pitch and second short pillar

This route forms over an overhanging wall of rock that makes a solid, steep pitch of ice. A lot of water flows on this formation which may make certain parts in the middle of the route probably not climbable. The left and the right side pose different challenges with the left being the most difficult. 70 meter ropes are highly recommended because shorter ropes will leave you stranded in the most difficult section of the first pitch of the route for a hanging belay.

FA:

Anchor: Bring material for a V-thread to rappel the route.

Tonsina Creek

Access Tonsina Creek from the Caines Head trail which starts at the Lowell Point State Recreation Area near Miller’s Landing just out of town of Seward. Drive south on the main road in to Seward until one comes to the t-intersection at the Sea Life Center. Turn right and head down towards Lowell Point. Pass the cannery and Slime Line on your right. Cross a couple of bridges. Shortly after, one will find the access signs for Lowell Point State Recreation Area and Caines Head Trail. Follow the signs to the parking area which is usually maintained in the winter. Park here and take the Caines Head trail right out of the parking lot. This trail will travel up through the trees and quickly make its way on to a private road. Head uphill on the road about a half mile or less and the trail will pick up back off the road on your left. A sign should be visible. Take this well used trail through the trees, down some switchbacks and to a metal bridge. Cross this bridge and make a right hand turn. Follow the trail over a small wooden bridge and to a large broken bridge over Tonsina Creek. This crossing is the appropriate access into Tonsina Creek. Total distance to Tonsina Creek from the parking lot is about 1.5 miles.

The climbs in this area require an additional 1.5 miles on approach from the broken bridge. Depending on the conditions of the river, access can be easy to probably difficult. If the river is frozen and covered in snow, snow shoes or skis are recommended to improve your approach time.

The Rhinestone Wizard

Rating: WI5
Length: 350 meters, 5 pitches

Climbed in January 2015 by Samuel Johnson, Eliot Gaddy, and Aaron Thrasher.

FA: Samuel Johnson, Eliot Gaddy, and Aaron Thrasher, January 2015

Descent: v-thread OR snowclimb up to the ridge on Tiehacker and descend summer trail to Bear Lake neighborhood.

Posted by: Samuel Johnson

alert icon ALERT: Below a large Y shaped funnel, not recommended during times of anything except low hazard.

Lunar Orbit

Rating: WI3+
Length: 200 meters, 4 pitches

Bushwhack uphill to reach the base of the lower angle ice, which extends downhill from the crux pitch, meaning the route is different lengths depending on the year. Best climbed during times of low snow as low angle pitches will be covered if it is very snowy. Transition here, and climb gradually steepening ice to the crux curtain. Find one more low angle pitch in the trees after the crux pitch, taking you to the top of the ridge.

FA: Feb 2018, climbed free solo by Samuel Johnson.

Anchor/Descent: Tree, v-threads

Posted by: Samuel Johnson

Blood Moon

Rating: WI4, M6/7
Length: 250 meters, 5 pitches

Cash Joyce soloed the lower water ice late 1990s/early 2000s. Crux pitch equipped January 2017 by Samuel Johnson, Ben Chriswell, and Mike Burmeister. Climbed free Jan 2018 by Samuel Johnson with Ian Colegrove. The route consists of a gorgeous moderate ice apron, followed by a chimney and gradually steepening ice approaching the crux pitch. The crux pitch (M6 fat/M7 thin) climbs an overhanging corner with daggers/drips and several small roofs, and is protected by ice screws, bolts, and medium gear. Pull through a final off-width roof to a two bolt anchor. One final pitch of M5R gets you to the hobbit forest at the top of the cliff where you’ll find a tree anchor.

FA: Samuel Johnson and Ian Colegrove, January 2018

Descent: Trees, 2 bolted anchors, v-threads, trees.

Posted by: Samuel Johnson

alert icon ALERT: Occasional loose rock.

Seward

Seward lies approximately 2.5 hours south of Anchorage on the Seward Highway. This tiny community is a busy summertime port for the numerous cruise ships passing through. In the winter, the town becomes quiet and most shops are closed waiting the return of the summer visitors. If you are venturing down in the off season, be sure to check the recent conditions. Ice climbing in Seward can come and go just about as quick as the summer tourists.

The approaches for the ice climbing in Seward varies from roadside to back country. The accessible Slime Line is a great warm up for the other ice climbing in the area like Victor Creek. But, plenty of back country climbs are in the Seward area that are worth the investment of the approach.