Rating: WI5
Length: 30 meters
Pitches: 1
95ft of steep ice broken up by a less steep section halfway up.
In previous years the pillar has looked much fatter and could be steeper than when it was climbed during the FA.
FA: Simeon Ramirez Ethan Berkeland Tristan O’Donoghue, March 2, 2025
Descent: Rap the route
Posted by: Simeon Ramirez, March 27, 2025
Rating: WI3
Length: 70 meters
Pitches: 1
This climb is the other climb on the wall to the right of Dragonfly Junior. 70m of WI3 ice broken into manageable steps. It starts off steeper and then gets easier at the top.
FA: Cody Klingman and Shane Ohms, March 24, 2024
Descent: Rappel route
Posted by: Shane Ohms, April 2, 2024
Rating: WI5
Length: 400 ft
Pitches: 3
Upper pitch forms every year. Can go up gully on right side of wall (not in photos) and then rappel to bottom of 3rd pitch and lead or top-rope back up.
Pitch 1 and 2 have formed/climbed at least twice. 2nd time much fatter.
Grade? WI 5-WI 6 depending on conditions. Long lost arrow on back wall: protects the pillar when thin. General Delta mixed rack…cams, knife blades, screws and things.
First ascent was done with two left scarpa inverno boots…which luckily always fit like a Hefty bag.
Be sure to check out the extended description in Jeff Benowitz’s guide.
FA: Hebrew Hammer, Ian McRae, David Willey, 1990s
Descent: Rap route
Posted by: Jeff Benowitz, February 8, 2024.
Rating: WI5
Length: 600 ft
Pitches: 4
go up
—
figured some Phenoix(sp) photos might inspire. These are from the year it was solo’d. If ice too thin, go left of first pitch and left at alcove of 2nd pitch (up ramp…then a few choices for cracks to dry tool).
Be sure to check out the extended descriptions in Jeff Benowitz’s guide and Roman Dial’s Guide.
FA: Steve Bergt and Steve Will, January 1984.
Descent: Descend to skiers left
Posted by: Jeff Benowitz, February 6, 2024.
Rating: WI3
Length: 20 meters
Pitches: 1
The Reindeer Hills Crag has a long horizontal wall offering many lines with a short (10-25’) burst of mixed climbing at the beginning.
Thin Blue Line is easily recognizable as it is the only climb on the wall whose ice touches down and doesn’t include a mixed component.
FA: Peter Alvarez, Ryan Ellicott, Becca Olson, and friends, October 29, 2023
Descent: Sling from the many alders to rappel.
Posted by: Shane Ohms, November 23, 2023.
Rating: WI2
Length: 80 meters (Pitch 1)
Pitches: 2
Loo is a phrase derived from the French “guarded l’eau” meaning “watch out for water!” which was shouted in medieval times right before someone would toss their honey bucket out the window and onto the street below. Doing this climb early in the season, you may want to watch out for water too!
The main waterfall (N 63.436132° W 148.770500°) is about 80 meters of discontinuous, somewhat short ice steps in quick succession. Can be divided any number of ways, but 40m and 40m makes a convenient belay spot.
After that there are a few more, even shorter, easier, and more spread out, ice steps (~15 meters total) that you might choose to do unroped.
After that you may exit the gully system and walk off around climbers right.
If you choose to take a left in the gully system, there is a final short (~6m) waterfall step that is more difficult due to its steepness and thinner ice coverage at the top. (N 63.433633° W 148.770114°) It can also be bypassed on the right using a convenient alder for protection and some scrambling.
FA: Shane Ohms and Jeremy Sanchez, October 22, 2023
Descent: Walk off on climbers right once the horizon opens up and you are out of the gully system.
Posted by: Shane Ohms, November 1, 2023.
Rating: WI2
Length: 30 meters
Pitches: 1
30 meters of fat ice takes you to a nice belay spot past the rock fin. Stick to the middle to keep out of alders. A little more ice exists up and to the left, but since it has fallen trees woven into its ice matrix; it would make for a messy rappel. 30 meters is a good spot to end at.
This climb is not worth the long drive if you are in search of challenging ice, but if you are searching for a unique Yukon experience… you might find yourself amidst howling wolves and northern lights mid rappel.
FA: Jeremy Sanchez and Shane Ohms; April 1, 2023.
Descent: Plan on rappelling by V-thread, but you may be able to sling a tree that is frozen in the ice mass.
Posted by: Shane Ohms; October 17, 2023
Rating: WI3
Length: 35 meters
Pitches: 1
15 meters of easy ice leads to 20 meters of steeper ice reaching WI3 in difficulty. 25 meters of of low angle snow/scree leads to a rock sling.
FA: Douglas Hartman and Shane Ohms; October 13, 2023.
Descent: Rappel route by slinging a large rock, or if the canyon to the left of climb is frozen enough to be passable, you can walk off to climbers left and walk back to the bottom through the canyon.
Posted by: Shane Ohms; October 17, 2023
Rating: WI3 M3/4X
Length: 150-160m
Pitches: 3-4
The name was a joke on the trip from the movie “The Other Guys.”
P1: If you brought them, pickets could be used as an anchor from the snow chute while climbing left and up 25m across unprotectable rock to gain the base of low angle ice in a narrow gully. M3X 25m
P2: Climb thin ice and steep snow with little pro up to the base of the steeper pillar. WI2/steep snow 45m
P3: 70-80 degree ice, sustained for 50m leads to 13m of low angle ice and snow in a tight canyon. There are two pitons here in a crack on climbers left as a 70m rope won’t reach the small blob of ice used for decent. Belay here or bring a longer rope. WI3 63m
P4, Optional: Belay a climber up to the small blob and build a thread to descend or use pins to rap. 10m steep snow.
FA: Jason Leach, Ryan Ellicott, Shane Ohms; March 19, 2023.
Descent: Rap the route.
ALERT: Rockfall potential is above average on this route.
Posted by: Jason Leach; March 21, 2023.
Rating: WI4/5
Length: 103 meters
Pitches: 2-3
The route was given its name to pay homage to Dragonfly Falls near Healy as its where most Fairbanks climbers first get their taste of ice.
P1: Climb sustained ice to a small shelf or cave on the left side to avoid a semi-hanging belay, 40m
P2: From P1 anchor climb up and right regaining steep ice, sustained WI4 for 50m until the angle lessens. continue up 13m of low angle ice and snow to a large chunk of ice on the right side where you can build a comfortable belay anchor. Can be done as 2 pitches if you don’t have a 70m rope.
FA: Jason Leach, Shane Ohms, Kristopher Veronin; April 24, 2022.
Descent: Rap the route.
ALERT: Be aware of the HUGE objective hazard above the route. The Cantwell Glacier may calve seracs down this route. Rockfall potential is above average on this route.
Posted by: Jason Leach; March 21, 2023
