Category: interior

Hanging Chad

Rating: WI6, M4
Length: 350 feet

Pitch 1: Approach pitch (WI3)
Short vertical step leads to low angle ice. Belay from cave on left.

Pitch 2: The Hanging Chad (WI6) 40M
Steep ice leads to more steep ice with the possibility of encountering a roof. Pillar often does not touch down. Many fixed pins in the rock from Jeff Benowitz. Belay from screws.

Pitch 3: Quartz Chimney (M4): A short, secure chimney leads to a few crux moves exiting onto a low angle snow ramp. Belay from alders.

First Complete Ascent: Tristan O’Donoghue, Grant Wilson, and Ethan Berkeland, 2023

Descent: Rap from atop the pillar or top out and walk off climber’s right down a large gulley above Gunnysack 2. Before reaching the top of the gunnysack 2, cut to skiers right which brings you back to the base of the ice climb.

Posted by: Tristan O’Donoghue, January 27, 2023.

Pillar of Cyn

Rating: WI5-
Length: 23 meters
Pitches: 1

Vertical free standing pillar with a few bulges at the top out into a tight alder and snow filled gully. Trees exist for an anchor up top that can be accessed via a ramp to the right of the climb.

The climb was named after the lady who followed the unknown leader. Her name was Cyndie, it was her first time ice climbing.

FA: Bob Shelton/Cyndie (last name unknown)

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: March 2, 2022.

Sheep Creek Falls

Rating: WI2/3
Length: 11 Meters
Pitches: 1

This is the most significant pitch of ice found in the Sheep creek drainage. While not any more or less challenging than the road ice off the highway the change of scenery can be appreciated. Following the pitch of ice, a long snow gully and a couple more log grade ice steps will make it possible to reach the summit of mt. Healy for a fun all day outing.

FA:

Descent: V-thread to descend.

Posted by: Tristan O’Donoghue, January 18, 2021

Jack River Falls

Rating: WI3-4
Length: 150 meters, 3 pitches

The route consists of three pitches. The first pitch is relatively easy and is a walk up that can sometimes be buried in snow. The second pitch begins to steepen and the difficulty is raised to WI3 or WI4 for a full rope length. The third pitch is a few hundred meters up the drainage and is separate enough to be considered a different climb. This climb is huge when in good conditions and can accomodate several parties.

FA:

Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to V-thread to rappel off of this route.

alert icon ALERT: This trail is used by snow machines. Be cautious on the trail.

Jack River

Near Cantwell, the Jack River provides access into the hills to the east of the Alaska Range. Snow machiners frequent this area because of the nice back country access and a trail loop out to the Parks Highway. This well used trail makes entry into the Jack River for the ice fairly straight forward.

Take the Denali Highway east from Cantwell approximately 4 miles to the BLM right-of-way trailhead. This trail is marked by two posts on the south side of the Denali Highway. Depending on the time of year visited, one may have to travel half the distance to the trail head on unmaintained roadway. Late in the season towards April, the highway may be plowed all the way to the trail head. This trail is the access to Jack River and provides a right-of-way through the native owned land in the area.

alert icon ALERT: This trail sees a decent amount of snow machine travel so be cautious on the trail.

Burning Sensation

Rating: WI4
Length: 100 meters

The climb starts out with approximately 40 meters of moderate ice (WI2 at most) up to a very good belay stance with a good tree for an anchor at the left base of the crux curtain. The crux of the route is a large curtain of 90 degree ice approximately 15 meters in height (one could traverse right even further to make the crux just slightly shorter). Above the crux exists approximately 45 meters of moderate ice followed by a final 5 meter near vertical pillar.

FA: Tim Cronin & Dan Valentine, March 2012

Anchor/Descent: v-thread, alders, or walk off to left of route.