Rating: WI4-5
Length: 30 meters
Pitches: 1
The two pillars are 30m in length. After 30m there’s another optional pitch of thin ice over slaby rock. If you do bonus pitch you can walk off of lower west glacier trail.
Descent:
FA: Unknown, first known lead is Mr Cameron Jardell.
Posted By: Dylan Stuart, March 11, 2023.
Rating: WI6 M6
Length: 318 M, 5 pitches
Climb thin ice and rime systems for 4 pitches past granite ramp features to access the base of the skinny pillar and/or mixed headwall to final ice eyebrow at the top of the wall that comprise the 5th pitch. In Feb 2012, this unclimbed feature formed as a pure WI6/6+ ice line. In 2020, on the first ascent it was climbed primarily as an ice feature with the exception of the final pitch which climbed an overhanging and skinny WI6 twin pillar to 5 or 6 overhanging rock moves (M6) to access the final ice eyebrow at the top of the wall.
FA: Climbed March 2020 by Samuel Johnson & Ryan Sims.
Anchor/Gear/Descent: Screws including stubbies, 1 spectre, & small pins OR small offset nuts/cams.
ALERT: Suicide Icefall exists to the left of the route. There is a large low angle slope above the route.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson, October 2, 2020
Rating: WI5
Length: 310 meters, 5 pitches
FA: Climbed January 2018 by Ryan Johnson and Samuel Johnson.
Anchor/Descent: v thread.
ALERT: Suicide icefall directly threatens the approach (and small approach pitch) but not the route. Be aware and move quickly. There is a large low angle slope above the route. Be aware and don’t climb during times of significant hazard.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson
Rating: WI5
Length: 400 meters, 6 pitches
FA: Climbed Feb 2012 by Ryan Johnson, Samuel Johnson, and Tim Banfield.
Descent: v thread.
ALERT: Suicide Icefall exists to the left of the route. There is a large low angle slope above the route.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson
Take the west glacier trail to the Mendenhall glacier, navigate your way across the glacier and into Suicide Basin. The exact route will depend on snow cover and will vary from year-to-year.
Rating: WI5-
Length:
Climb follows obvious drainage through steep curtain. This route is visible from downtown.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: Alders exist throughout the side of the route for rappel.
ALERT: Avalanches can be deadly in this drainage. Avalanches have been seen to rip all the way down to Basin Road. Check the conditions before climbing on this route. After any sizeable snowfall or heavy winds stay off the route until conditions improve.
Rating: WI3
Length: 180-200 meters, 3 pitches
Climb follows obvious drainage.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: Alders exist throughout the side of the route for rappel.
ALERT: Avalanches can be deadly in this drainage. Avalanches have been seen to rip all the way down to Basin Road. Check the conditions before climbing on this route. After any sizeable snowfall or heavy winds stay off the route until conditions improve.
Mount Juneau ice climbs have short approaches, long routes, and the conditions can be viewed easily from Basin Road. Mount Juneau classics include Chop Gully, the Green Weenie, and Sunshine Gully.
ALERT: Avalanches can be deadly in this drainage. Avalanches have been seen to rip all the way down to Basin Road. Check the conditions before climbing on this route. After any sizeable snowfall or heavy winds stay off the route until conditions improve.
Rating: WI3+
Length: 25 meters
This route travels up a rock face providing several variations of difficulty.
FA:
Anchor/Descent:
The Mendehall Glacier is easily accessible from Juneau by Mendenhall Loop Road to the Glacier Spur Road to gain trail access. Other access points may exist from the West Glacier Trail off the Skaters Cabin Road on the north side of the lake.
