Rating: WI6 M6
Length: 318 M, 5 pitches
Climb thin ice and rime systems for 4 pitches past granite ramp features to access the base of the skinny pillar and/or mixed headwall to final ice eyebrow at the top of the wall that comprise the 5th pitch. In Feb 2012, this unclimbed feature formed as a pure WI6/6+ ice line. In 2020, on the first ascent it was climbed primarily as an ice feature with the exception of the final pitch which climbed an overhanging and skinny WI6 twin pillar to 5 or 6 overhanging rock moves (M6) to access the final ice eyebrow at the top of the wall.
FA: Climbed March 2020 by Samuel Johnson & Ryan Sims.
Anchor/Gear/Descent: Screws including stubbies, 1 spectre, & small pins OR small offset nuts/cams.
ALERT: Suicide Icefall exists to the left of the route. There is a large low angle slope above the route.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson, October 2, 2020
Lat: 58.457088
Long: -134.492241
In the Suicide basin, approached via the West glacier trail and Mendenhall glacier or a short helicopter ride from Juneau.
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