Rating: WI5
Length: 174 m, 4 pitch
Climb Tonsina Pillar (75m, 1 or 2 pitches), then continue through a slot canyon with easy soloing and snow walking to a large brushed terrace and gully abutting a south facing headwall. Trend left through moderate brush to a small drainage leading to the bottom of this two pitch pillar and/or curtain feature splitting the headwall. Two pitches (100m, 2 pitches) of ramp into steep and featured waterfall ice with rollovers that allow for comfortable belays. Around 500m long with 175m/575 feet of roped terrain, with snow and easy slot canyon in between.
FA: Samuel Johnson & Joe Nyholm Jan 2020
Anchor/Gear/Descent: Screws including stubbies. Alders and natural gear exist for the descent.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson, October 2, 2020
Lat: 60.03337130302697
Long: -149.49088633060455
This route is approximately 1.5 miles up the Tonsina Creek after the bridge from the Caines Head trail and is located on the north side of the drainage. The approach to the base of this route may prove to be one of the cruxes of the climb. A gully of snow leads one through trees to the base of what appears to be a rather steep pillar of ice.
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