Rating: WI3
Length: 90 meters
This climb is most easily distinguished by a 10m pillar high above the Portage Creek and is easily visible from the road near the Portage Center. Depending on conditions, ice below can be thin to non-existent.
FA: Bob Dugan, Dave McGivern
Anchor: Alder bushes and trees exist on the route to set up natural protection for rappel stations.
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This little gem is located to the right of Follies by approximately 150 meters (right climb in photo). Approach same as for Follies and Gutterboy - From the Seward Highway take the Portage Valley Road as if going to Whittier. Drive approximately 5 miles to the turnoff for the Begich-Boggs Visitor Center. Depending on the state of how frozen the river is, two options exist for getting to the climb. One can park at the Visitor Center and walk along the side of the main highway toward the tunnel. After crossing the bridge, drop down to the river and walk on the shore side until one can access the base of the climb. Another option is to park on the main highway just downstream from the climb. Hike to the river and cross the river in a low flow area. Hike upstream to the bottom of the climb. The second option can be rather labor intensive if heavy snow exists in the valley. Bring snowshoes and extra socks.
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I suggest the left line is Tall Man and likely grade IV. I don’t know the name of the right one but it is around 130-140m and grade III. Great chimney near the end. 2/20/21