Rating: WI4 M6+ R
Length: 242 meters, 5 pitches
A spicy two pitch mixed addendum to the Cash Joyce route, arcing up the wall to the right of Blood Moon‘s headwall pitches.
A gorgeous mostly hidden 600 foot ice apron (Cash Joyce route) leads to gradually steepening ice in a slot canyon where you will find a 2 bolt belay.
Where Blood Moon continues up the guts of the drainage headwall, Varcolaci goes about 40 feet up the drainage and climbs the second small pillar/dagger on the right below an arching roof. It steinpulls out the right side of an arching roof and onto a slab to its right. Continue around the corner to a nice flat spruce tree belay (WI4 M6/6+ R). The final pitch climbs disconnected daggers above the spruce tree, utilizing corner systems (M6+ R) to end up in the hobbit forest at the top of the cliff.
FA: March 2020, Ryan Sims and Samuel Johnson
Anchor/Gear/Descent: Standard clean mixed rack, spectre, screws including stubbies
Posted by: Samuel Johnson, October 2, 2020
ALERT: Occasional loose rock.
Lat: 60.10147530666713
Long: -149.30776288083962
Park at 4th of July Creek. Head up 4th of July creek to its confluence with Godwin creek. Go past Jailbreak on the West end of a large forested rock buttress. Continue up Godwin creek for another 1/4 mile. The entire route is not visible from any single vantage point. Look for a left trending narrow apron of ice dropping out of the forested cliff below a large chimney system. Head uphill to access the lower ice apron of Blood Moon.
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