Rating: WI5
Length: 60 meters
Pitches: 1
This is a beautiful sustained steep Pillar that comes in a little different every year but commonly has aerated sections, chandeliers and cauliflowers. The Left side usually comes in a little easier than the right.
Descent: V-thread off the top.
FA: Sherrie Soltis, Bill Billmier, & Jon Cobb; February 9, 2010.
Posted by: Sherrie Soltis, October 26, 2020.
Rating: WI5
Length: 165 feet
This is probably the fattest pillar climbed in Alaska. It is only 165 feet long but very steep and probably 165 feet around at its base. The climb is located directly across the Chitistone River from Broken Dreams and is very impressive, plunging as it does from the back of an alcove.
For more information refer to Roman Dial’s 
Chitistone Canyon Ice Climbs Guide .
FA: Eric Breitenberger, January 1987.
Anchor: V-thread.
Rating: WI6
Length: 1500 feet
This is the most spectacular climb in the canyon, featuring eight distinct steps in 1,500 feet. Broken Dreams is the obvious multi-tiered waterfall cascading down the left hand side of the Chitistone Canyon about three miles upstream of Glacier Creek. Directly opposite on the right side is Full Bore. Hike up the obvious outwash cone into the woods and to the base of the first tier.
For more information refer to Roman Dial’s Chitistone Canyon Ice Climbs Guide .
FA: Chuck Comstock, Roman Dial, Carl Tobin, January 1987.
Anchor: V-thread.
Rating: WI4
Length: 60 m
This icefall exists on Winner Creek. At least 1 hour approach. Be prepared to cross Winner Creek to gain access.
FA: Bob Dugan, Jason Moncrieff, and Andy Garrigus, 1995.
Descent: Descend the route or walk off. Best to rap the route.
Posted by: Jason Moncrieff, October 10, 2020.
4th of July Creek pours into Resurrection Bay on the east side, directly across from Lowell Point. Take Nash Road north of Seward proper and drive south to the river crossing where you can gain access leading up the drainage. Climbs are located upstream, primarily on Godwin Creek, which empties into 4th of July Creek. Access Godwin Creek taking the left at the Y after a short hike.
Rating: WI5
Length: 174 m, 4 pitch
Climb Tonsina Pillar (75m, 1 or 2 pitches), then continue through a slot canyon with easy soloing and snow walking to a large brushed terrace and gully abutting a south facing headwall. Trend left through moderate brush to a small drainage leading to the bottom of this two pitch pillar and/or curtain feature splitting the headwall. Two pitches (100m, 2 pitches) of ramp into steep and featured waterfall ice with rollovers that allow for comfortable belays. Around 500m long with 175m/575 feet of roped terrain, with snow and easy slot canyon in between.
FA: Samuel Johnson & Joe Nyholm Jan 2020
Anchor/Gear/Descent: Screws including stubbies. Alders and natural gear exist for the descent.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson, October 2, 2020
Rating: WI4 M4 R
Length: 167 meters, 4 pitches
A pitch and a half easy/moderate but serious mixed addendum to Jailbreak. Climb Jailbreak. On the third pitch, climb the Jailbreak’s small pillar and then veer left up a short vertical wall (spectres) onto a left trending ramp feature (2 bolt belay). For the fourth pitch, continue up the left trending ramp to access a 40 ft pillar that is slightly harder than it looks from below. After the pillar, trend left over thinly iced rock (stubbies, girth hitched icicles) to finish via a short pillar, manteling over to the tree belay in the hobbit forest at the top of the cliff.
FA: Samuel Johnson, Joe Nyholm, & Cody Klingman Jan 2020
Anchor/Gear/Descent: Cams 1″-3”, 3 Spectres, screws including stubbies
Posted by: Samuel Johnson, October 2, 2020
Rating: WI4 M6+ R
Length: 242 meters, 5 pitches
A spicy two pitch mixed addendum to the Cash Joyce route, arcing up the wall to the right of Blood Moon‘s headwall pitches.
A gorgeous mostly hidden 600 foot ice apron (Cash Joyce route) leads to gradually steepening ice in a slot canyon where you will find a 2 bolt belay.
Where Blood Moon continues up the guts of the drainage headwall, Varcolaci goes about 40 feet up the drainage and climbs the second small pillar/dagger on the right below an arching roof. It steinpulls out the right side of an arching roof and onto a slab to its right. Continue around the corner to a nice flat spruce tree belay (WI4 M6/6+ R). The final pitch climbs disconnected daggers above the spruce tree, utilizing corner systems (M6+ R) to end up in the hobbit forest at the top of the cliff.
FA: March 2020, Ryan Sims and Samuel Johnson
Anchor/Gear/Descent: Standard clean mixed rack, spectre, screws including stubbies
Posted by: Samuel Johnson, October 2, 2020
ALERT: Occasional loose rock.
Rating: WI4
Length in Meters: 70
Length in Pitches: 2
Overview: Furthest right obvious ice line on the wall. 40m of bulgy ice to a bit of snow climbing leads to an excellent belay cave behind the final vertical curtains. WI4+
Approach: About 2.5 miles from 18 mile/DOT lot located on the cliff north of Wortmann’s Creek, lots of ice visible from the river. This is the furthest right obvious ice line on the cliff.
Descent: v-thread
FA: Galen Vansant, Ryan Sims, Sam Volk; February 2018
Rating: WI4
Length: 25 meters
Vertical curtain to a little less than vertical ice with great stemming.
FA: Sam Volk, Ryan Sims, Galen Vansant. February 2018
Descent/Anchor: v-thread
Posted by: Sam Volk
ALERT: Avalanche hazard above
