Scott Mignery

First Ascents

Eklutna Canyon
Champipple

Matanuska River
G-Man
Paradise Pillar

Caribou Creek
Kid's Corner
China Wear
MSD
Spaced Out
Kantellia Falls
Robopick
Thag-O-Mizer
Papa Bear

Echo Bend
Porcupine

October 2020 –

Scott Mignery has provided AIC with a great narrative on himself and what it was like to climb back during the days of new route explosion of the ’80s and ’90s.

To AIC:

It was in 1984 that I moved to Alaska, specifically for the alpine mountaineering opportunities the south central region had to offer. I did an attempt on peak 9828 (Mt. Hesperus) in the Revelations in 1982, but I knew I’d be back. I had met Tom Walter in college in N. California, and we made plans to drive up together. I also hooked up with partners like Steve Davis, Chris Roach, and Karl Swanson among others.

Once Chris & I hooked up, the gold rush was on. Our hay day lasted two winters with Caribou Creek & surrounding areas. The word did get out and claim jumpers were barking at our doorstep and stealing our loot. They didn’t call it Kantellia for nothing.

Wayne Mushrush and I were both sworn to secrecy by Chris. But Wayne was a breakaway and defected. I tried to get him to collaborate on an article as joint authors, but Wayne published anyway apart from our efforts! That’s when a riff really began to form, I guess. I suppose if I had any regrets, it would be that Chris & I put our objectives before our friendships.

Chris and I spent a second winter in the upper canyon [of Caribou Creek], this time doing weekend bivouacs. We approached via the Gunsight Lodge snowmobile / miners trail. Tom Walter and I did some great FA’s that same year, like Paradise Pillar near Boulder Creek and the north buttress of Pioneer Peak. I sure did appreciate his style too.

For tools, Chris and I both carried north wall hammers. He carried a pair of Chounaird Zeros, while I employed a Hummingbird (AIC: see the Ice Timeline to learn more about some of the early ice tools and gear) and a Grivel, with a Stubai for a backup. I had a knack for breaking picks. We liked to mix up our protection, but we truly preferred Snargs. I found it rather soothing to hammer in my pro. Possibly from being a carpenter by trade. It was faster too.

Chris had a hot little snow machine. So did Wayne. I had to buy one to tag along. Being a father I had to settle for a rather worn out Skidoo. It was a real dinosaur. It got nicknamed Thag. Chris had an affinity for Far Side comics. So we machined into this frozen canyon, getting frost nipped in the process. But we were starting to get the job done. Later, we were criticized by the granola crunchers for not skiing in, and therefore, should be disqualified from being awarded FA status. Well this was the 90’s now, and if we want to ski, we’ll go skiing. We are shaving our necks and pressing our ties now too.

It was the late spring of ’92 I think. I was involved in an attempt on the south face of Kitchatna Spire. It was a large maritime storm that came upon the AK Range. Upon returning to town I learned of Tom Walter and Mugs Stumps’ deaths. Tom on Foraker’s Pink Panther and Mugs on the south buttress of Denali.

I guess that hit a little too close to home for me. I had already lost several rope mates, but this seemed to be tipping the balance. I’d heard about guys just all of the sudden hanging their tools up, but didn’t think it would be me. But, I did.

It was the following year my ex-wife left AK with my kids. 1994 was the year I moved back to the Midwest as well. Since AK, I’ve sailed the great lakes and currently enjoy touring on my Harley Street Glide when not too busy running my construction company.

~Scott Mignery

A list of his first ascents listed on the AIC guide is shown on the left.