Paul Farmer & I climbed this route in Feb., '86. We sure thot it to be an FA so we...

Did this the same day we climbed 3 Ring Circus

Did this climb years ago, had a lot of fun.

Eddie climbed this to the top med Dave Moss (Canada).

Far right?

I mean west to east…am dyslectic(sp). Gunny 2 is furthest up creek.

200 yards off isn't bad from off the top of my head, no map with me or a gps. How'd...

Thanks, Hebrew. Not sure what you mean. Are you suggesting that Gunny 1 is the furthest up river? Our coordinates...

Looking at the location map Should go: East to West Gunny 1 Go tell it to the Mountain Hanging Chad...

This was the only climb I found definitive evidence of a previous ascent in the area in the 90's. There...

This information comes second hand. Would you be willing to help us get the route coordinates?

The grid on the approach tab is not correct. Its about 1/4th a mile past that grid

Not an incredibly difficult approach, but the ice itself is disappointing. A couple short steps which probably don't exceed WI2-3....

No signs of ice in January 2021. Perhaps it doesn't always form.

Thanks for taking the time to look closely at this map for Hunter. When we built out this area, the...

Note: on the map the location of this climb is incorrect. Do not get suckered into the gps pin from...

Thanks, Jeff. Got it updated!

I mean left of first pitch…me dysletic (sp)

Awesome, Emma. Hope some day to hit up these routes!

I live in Haines and would love to try this. Have basic toprope gear and some (minimal) experience. Could provide...

I skied to the base of this climb today (1/12/24) and found it to be completely filled in with snow....

The famed Broken Pillar that collapsed on the first ascent party (and Roman Dial took photos of) was climbed for...

Whatcha talking about?! Thanks for pointing that out, Jeff. The route approach was a little off. It is corrected now....

"Travel on Knik Lake until the glacier butts up against the rock. Look up and right- the wall is obvious."...

Nice work! This is a rad looking line, we were hoping to climb this line/something similar to this on our...

Ever been skied?

I did not call any one anything. Ice grades are very problematic because its the length of vertical that matters,...

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Pr54zokdYKk video from the FA

I don’t believe I called you any names. In fact I have tremendous respect for you and your climbing. So...

umm Mr. Hammer in Ethan's defense you did sort've call us bitches in your initial remark. Also, it seems like...

Thanks, Jeff! We would love to have that contribution to the site!

If anyone has a copy of the 2nd addition of buffalo, barley and ice: feel free to digitize it (photograph)...

Amphoral interior Ice is that way- the 2nd ascent of forgiveness was much more forgiving : but calling me an...

Thanks, Jeff! Got it updated!

Way to go. Looks awesome. The University Wall climbs are likely in also and perhaps Forgiveness. Go Tell it on...

Its Go tell it to the mountain 5.8(?)x WI4 M5(?) Bring cams

Ok, Hebrew Hammer, I went and found another climb, I think you named it Hanging Chad? Thought it was a...

Active trapping on and near trail, make sure pets are leashed.

Many thanks. Good to have better coordinates! We will get them added to the route description.

GPS coordinates for this climb are over 200 yards too far west (upstream). Better coordinates are 63.579549°, -148.858449° in WGS84...

This climb has been referred to by locals as 'Wacker Pee' for well over a decade

This anchor has two bolts now. Right below the pins.

the #4 cam placement I referred to in my 12/21/21 post no longer exists. Maybe there is another placement to...

Climbed March 2022. Party of 4. Excellent climb. Recommend snow machine for easiest access, but there are usually enough well-travelled...

I beg to differ. The ratings of the Delta River region ice are internally consistent. This route has been soloed...

Seems to be more of a consensus here. Rating will be adjusted. Thanks for the feedback.

I would agree that this climb is at least a WI4+. I found this route to be more difficult than...

this route is 5 star rt.......unfortunate the free hanging pillar in the photo isnt formed......english translation is The Hanging Bell!...

This route is ~40 meters long. You will not reach the ground with a 60m rope from the anchor.

A #4 BD cam is very nice for the last moves to the anchor.

I am just again on this page, a year and a half later. No, I am not suggesting a different...

Thanks, Sean! The Johnny Cash area location is now updated.

The location of this icefall is misplaced on the maps. Here are the approximate coordinates: 63.810012°N, 148.948205°W

i need pics of glacier creek

Climbed Octave on Feb 28, 2021. It was in great shape. Some rotten ice on the left line with sketchy...

I suggest the left line is Tall Man and likely grade IV. I don't know the name of the right...

Anchor bolts have been placed for rappel.

This is a great discussion for a route not well known by many. We appreciate your comments. The rating was...

Calling this WI3 is one of the more preposterous sandbags I have ever encountered. It is WI4+ minimum, fully vertical...

My climbing partner and I agreed that this information is somewhat of a sandbag as we stood at the base...

Jim Hale and John Dillman made the first free and second ascent a week after the Fairbanks group fixed ropes...

actually climbed by Karl Swanson and Dave Miller in 1985 and was not named as it was felt to be...

Please avoid top roping and or climbing on this when it is first forming, as it will get beat to...

Chris Roach, Tom Evans, & I first went up to address the pillar in December of 1990. We basically got...

The first ascent was led in one pitch using a 300 meter 9 mm rope supplied by Chris Roach via...

Thanks. Route description is now updated.

At least 1 hour approach. Have to cross Winner Creek. Best to rap the route.

Great video! Dave and I also did another short climb above Taurine - called Ida or something like that.

I climbed the discontinuous ice to the right, following the skinny, hanging ice dagger to top out (1996, belayed and...

Carl, are you claiming a different name and first ascent on this route? Help us get it right.

It was early April, I think, when Roman and I drove from Fairbanks to Sukapak for the 2nd ascent. We'd...

Thanks. We will add that detail to the route info.

There is now a two bolt anchor